7th May 2024 Boadilla del Camino to Villalcazar de Sirga

Steve was supposed to have a business call this morning but the internet signal remained stubbornly close to zero, so they had to do the call without him.  I think he might have tried to go back to sleep as the meeting was at 6 o’clock and he didn’t wake me until about 7 o'clock. 

The morning routine of hydrolyte-water and packing of bags commenced and we headed out the door about 7.30 and ran into Chang.  He had to go back inside for a while so we said we were sure he would catch up to us soon which he did.  We walked along the Canal Castilla into Fromista.  This canal is quite historic, and like most canals, was initially made to transport goods – in this case, grain and it began in the mid-18th Century. 

Chang is studying for a Masters in Theology and seems to be at a crossroads in his life.  He is only 25 years old and is trying to find his purpose in life.  We had an amazing chat while Steve enjoyed the quiet of a canal walk behind us taking in all the sights, and sounds, of the area.  It really is a pretty place with the sun causing gorgeous reflections on the glassy surface.

We talked for about 5km before we arrived at the lock system just before Fromista then we found a little bar to grab a coffee and a sandwich for breakfast.  Steve has really been enjoying the jamon bocadillos and wanted one of those but there were none, so I just got a sandwich and his second favourite, tortillas patatas which we enjoyed outside under cover.  It was a little chilly, so regular visits to the sunny outside were needed.

 Chang was going to stay for a bit longer and get another chocolate croissant so we wished him well and headed off again – this time to Población de Campos where we stopped for another coffee before continuing along the right hand pathway where the Camino divides.  This way follows a quieter path, and we walked along a “farm road” past multiple paddocks of wheat, cotton wood trees and also a lot of personal-use farmlets growing everything from onions to eggplants to almonds until we arrived in the small town of Villovieco where there seemed to be a lot of cats wanting our attention.

By this stage we were getting hungry and I really wanted some salad but it appeared that the only café in town was closed.  Oh well, we will just have to drink water and eat a snack we thought but as we left town and crossed the bridge we found a great spot and the woman serving there made us a salad each (not on the menu but if you don’t ask you don’t know) and it was delicious.  Another great stop for us before continuing along the Rio Ucieza for about 5km.  This was a bit like the approach into Burgos for us – we just seemed to be walking and walking and never getting closer to the house/church that we could see in front of us and which was the spot where we turned left for the final kilometre into Villalcazar de Sirga – our destination for the day.

The river was very interesting as it narrowed then widened, the water was sometimes flowing quickly and other times barely moving, there were areas of reeds where the frog calls were almost overwhelming and other areas where there were small rapids.  It was so much better than the alternative track although both would re-join in Villalcazar de Sirga.  The cottonwood trees left their mark along the trail with areas where the fluff on the ground was so thick and other times almost non- existent.  The area had a lot of replanting happening and this is terrific as there isn’t a lot of shade in a lot of areas and this will really help.  We also saw Poplars, various thistles, salt-cedar and some really interesting plants called Mullein which can be used for gut health and fighting infection.  A bit nerdy I suppose but a great application on my phone helps me with these unanswered questions!

We found our albergue and were shown to our room and who was sitting in the garden but Chang.  After a quick chat he said he really needed to be going as he still had another 6km to go as he was staying in Carrion de los Condes tonight.  Good-byes were said and we were introduced to others at that table – Kim from Melbourne who told us a story about the troubles he has had with his luggage being lost, having to buy everything for his Camino again, wrong shoes etc then blisters from the wrong shoes etc.  Poor man as he has walked to Everest Base Camp and didn’t have any issues with his feet.  He was struggling.

I hadn’t had a chance to have a shower and was getting cold, so I headed into the room to do that and get the washing done too.  Warmed up, I stayed outside chatting for a while before coming back to the room to catch up on the blog, finalise editing of the photos etc.  I checked the bed as there are four single beds in our private room and wanted to find one that was comfortable.  I was out of luck – all the beds are really firm so I hope I will be able to get some sleep tonight.

Dinner was at 7pm so we caught up with Kim and Eduardo along with Janet (from New York State)