3rd May 2024 Burgos to Hornillas del Camino

We both had an unsettled night’s sleep, but it was a day when we couldn’t really muck around too much.  We had bought some protein yoghurt drink and some bananas so that was breakfast before we completed packing and headed down to reception to settle the bill for our room service two nights ago.

All done we headed out into the cold (once again) – the “feels like” temperature was 0 and the temperature wasn’t expected to even reach 6 until 11am.  Our location made it easy for us to leave Burgos as we only had to turn left at the top of the stairs then walk about 800m and turn left after going through the archway.  Suburban roads were followed for a while and then suddenly we were back out into paddocks which I must say, I prefer.

Our first stop was Tardajos, some 11km from Burgos.  There wasn’t a lot to see on the way but we kept going as it was too cold to stop – thank goodness for our buffs.  We walked for about 5km with a couple of American guys, Steve and Jerry, both ex-military and very interesting men but they were walking at a faster pace than we wanted and we needed a toilet break so we said our Buen Camino’s and wished them a safe trip on to Santiago.

Tardajos appeared and we managed to find the same bar I had gone to six years ago and where I had been speaking to Joanne and walked out without my gloves meaning another kilometre was added to my day to go back and get them.  It was still a very friendly place and we got some pintxos of olives with white anchovies and cheese wrapped in iberico ham – both delicious.  Coffees were delicious and much needed in the cold air.

 The two Aussie girls from Fremantle (Dawn and her sister, Nicky) arrived and we all sat together talking for about 30 minutes.  Dawn was quite emotional as she was remembering times with her father and couldn’t even understand why she was being triggered.  I just gave her a hug and said it would be ok and just go with it.  We ended up walking most of the day with them.  It was a case of leap-frog once again and they had us in stitches with their little dances and impromptu singing.

We got to the Ermita de la Virgen de Monasterio where I had a beautiful experience last time.  Just to go back in time a little:

Music was coming from the chapel, so I headed inside. It was a very peaceful place but this time, there was a person with a stamp (sello) for my credencial and this time it was a nun with a calm and beautiful presence.  She was presenting all pilgrims with the Medal of the Immaculate, known around the world as the miraculous medal. This small medal, on a string, was placed over my head in the tradition of an Olympic medal, she blessed me and gave me some information about it. I have put this information as photos in the collection. Another unforgettable snippet of time. The medal will go, as my Mum used to say, in the “never to be lost” box.

Such a sweet Nun and I managed to find a picture of her to show the nun who was there – I managed to communicate that I was there six years ago and this nun had been so beautiful to me.  She was so excited and gave me a massive hug and explained (in sign language and Spanish) that she was still alive but hadn’t been at the Ermita for a few years now as she is quite old.  I was so excited to hear she was still with us and asked the nun to please pass on my blessings.  She blessed me, and Steve, and presented us both, as before, with a small medal on a piece of string.  She gave me an extra one when I went back to say goodbye and gave her another hug.

 The Ermita is just beautiful and the music playing changed to Ave Maria and Dawn became quite overwhelmed, so hugs were needed once again.  Steve and I walked on so she could have her moment with her sister, but we caught up later near the viewpoint where there is a major descent into Hornillas del Camino. 

The view is truly spectacular.  We had been walking through canola and wheat fields and it is surprising that the ground supports these crops and they flourish as the ground looks terribly stony and not at all like crops would do well here but they do.

Steve changed into his crocs as his boot was a little tight and had rubbed the outside of his ankle, but he changed at the right time with no further damage.  Down the hill and into our albergue.  Bunk beds tonight for us in a room for four people.  Thank goodness for my earplugs but we don’t know just yet who will be in the room with us.  Hopefully not any snorers!

We are having dinner and breakfast here – they are all homemade and tonight there is chicken paella, and we are really looking forward to that as we haven’t really eaten today apart from the small breakfast and a protein bar and banana and need the nourishment.